Winter Wonderland: The Most Controversial Christmas Attraction In London

It’s 2.39 pm on a cold but sunny Thursday in November, and my senses are being attacked from all sides. Neon lights flash above, while adrenaline junkies scream from nearby fairground rides. The air thickens with the smell of oil and the catchy tunes of vintage Black Eyed Peas. It's been five years since my last visit to Winter Wonderland, one of London's most popular Christmas attractions—or a tourist trap, depending on whom you ask. I honestly didn't expect to return. To some, Christmas doesn’t start until you've wandered through Hyde Park's festive maze, but I’ve always thought of Winter Wonderland as a commercial nightmare best avoided.

Launched in 2005, Winter Wonderland started as a small, innocent winter fair. But thanks to financial boosts from major event companies, it evolved into a vast village filled with rides, games, shows, food stalls, and German-themed markets. Each year, it grows larger, attracting crowds eager to skate on its ice rink or ride its London Eye-style wheel. Today, it’s a must-visit during the holiday season, as synonymous with Christmas in London as mince pies and office party hangovers.

However, many people roll their eyes at the mere mention of Winter Wonderland. Critics argue it epitomizes Christmas consumerism. It appeals to millennials, families, and groups on festive outings. To label someone as “the kind of person who enjoys Winter Wonderland” is often a backhanded insult. While some couples line up to capture their love beneath the bright neon arches, others find the whole scene basic or cringeworthy. As the Instagram artist Niall Gallagher (aka Times New Roadman) noted in a cheeky painting: “Breaking news: Couple photos at Winter Wonderland won’t save your doomed relationship.”

My thoughts about Winter Wonderland echo similar sentiments. My first visit was during my initial winter in London, marking a rite of passage. The freshly fallen snow transformed into grey slush, and despite the shocking prices, entry was free, making the day feel worth it.

However, Winter Wonderland has evolved significantly. Now, guests attending during peak times must pay for entry, a decision aimed at managing crowds and reducing queues. Yet, this system has struggled under the sheer volume of visitors. Every year, videos emerge showing scuffles among ticket holders, often fueled by mulled wine or other substances. On TripAdvisor, complaints about overcrowding and exorbitant prices abound, with one person lamenting, “£10 for cheesy chips!” Many argue that the charm of the event has faded, leaving behind a commercialized shell.

As I headed to Winter Wonderland in 2023, a sense of trepidation loomed over me. Thankfully, it was an off-peak time, resulting in minimal queues. After scanning our tickets, security guards thoroughly checked bags and coats. Given the viral videos showcasing how to sneak alcohol inside, such stringent checks didn’t come as a surprise.

Upon entering, the atmosphere was relatively calm. Families in black puffer jackets pushed strollers while friends and students relished their days off. Initially, I worried that avoiding peak times might mean missing out on the authentic Winter Wonderland experience; however, a TikTok video later highlighted the chaos of this year's queues, making me feel less regretful about my choice.

We quickly headed for the map to pinpoint various attractions. Christmas songs played in the background, interspersed with unexpected tunes meant for sing-alongs, like “Build Me Up Buttercup.” Everything appeared to be made of dark wood, and the scent of doughnuts wafted through the air.

I foolishly assumed that most visitors were there for the rides. However, for many, the food stands serve as the main attraction. TikTok videos, often set to a sped-up version of Wham’s “Last Christmas,” feature users showcasing their food hauls at Winter Wonderland, with expenses running into hundreds of pounds. From glistening £22 racks of ribs to elaborate desserts, the food offerings were both dazzling and extravagant.